Our Whale Shark watching adventure on Holbox

While researching our trip to Holbox I read a lot of reviews on Whale Shark Tour Operators. Many of the Hotels and other Tour Operators contract with Willy's Tours. I'm a fly by the seat of your pants traveller, Tom likes things a bit more put together. Regardless, I decided to just wait till we got to the island and to contact Willy's directly. I was hoping that by dealing direct we might get a better price.

Willy's Tours office is run from the famly store 'Mini Super Besa'.

When we stopped in at the Mini Super Besa to talk with don Willy, he wasn't there so we talked with Ingrid - you can email directly to Willy's Tours at willystours@hotmail.com , or if you are so inclined they list the following numbers on the business card they gave me - 01-984-875-2008, 01-984-875-2152, cel 984-128-7552.

What we didn't hear or read on any of the websites is that the whalesharks came in early this year and consequently had started moving away early. They were no longer around Holbox, and we would have to go to Cabo Catoche or even as far as Isla Contoy to locate them.

What this meant was that rather than the typical 30-45 minute boat ride it would take us 1 1/2 - 2 hours to get to Contoy, and then the search to try to locate some. Luckily for us we were only seven on the boat so plenty of room to move around.

All the time on the boat melted away as soon as we saw our first whale shark.

It was so cool because the whale shark was just sort of treading water with it's big mouth open allowing the water to flow through where it sieved out the plankton. Riding the wave in front of the lips are all these smaller fish taking advantage of the incoming plankton.

We were able to pull up right along side and so I got some good shots.

So once you find the whale sharks the process is that 2 visitors + the guide get ready and sit up on the edge of the boat, the capitan maneuvers the boat into position and then says, 'Go', at which point the three of you drop over the side of the boat and swim over to the whale shark.

If you are in a calm area it's really cool cause you can just move slowly around the whaleshark, if the encounter is in current you swim to keep up with it, but then what I really enjoyed was to swim slower and let the whaleshark just slowly pass me by. Or some just swam like the devil to keep up.

Your group spends about 10 minutes in the water then exits for others to get in. Only two visitors are permitted in with a guide. Several boats approached ours but backed off to go hunt for other whalesharks so I guess they respect the efforts to keep from stressing the whalesharks out.

Other tour details - the boat leaves about 8am; after the swimming you get lunch which is a 3 layer sandwich, apple, and a soda or water. You are asked if you want to use a buoyancy vest, or a neoprene shorty suit. You are provided fins, a snorkel, and a mask. Bring sunscreen, hat, motion sick tablets, binoculars, extra water to rinse the saltwater from your face, granola bars, whatever will make you comfortable being out on a boat 5-7 hours.

We were well pleased with Willy's Tours; our guide Lis was really sweet and knowledgable. The capitan, Tomas, although not real communicative was very good and had good eyes, he would detour for us to see other stuff as well. On our trip we saw manta rays, golden rays, spotted eagle rays, turtles, and dolphins. On the trip back the capitan took us into a shallows area where we were able to get into the water and just relax a few minutes. There were also lots of birds in this area as well.

It was a very good day!

oh the wind she was a blowin

We had such a storm last night - so much wind, swirling and blowing, nearly 3/4" of rain coming in sheets.

I was in the middle of fixing dinner, about 7:30-8PM when the power went out. No Prpblem, we're hurricane ready, the stove is gas, I just cooked and we ate by candlelight. So very romantic, well except that we had no fans and it was really humid and stuffy.

Don't get me started on badly we slept, tossing, turning, sweating, we were a moveable mosquito feast. Boy do we rely on those fans. Yipes!

We have a momma dove and two babies in the sour orange just outside the kitchen; we were holding vigil in case we needed to mount rescue efforts. They rode out the storm and are all sitting pretty this morning.

We did suffer some garden and plant damage; pots blown over, some plants uprooted, lots of leaves stripped off, some branches down. We'll be sweeping and raking today.

We've been without power now for over 12 hours; no sign of CFE, our electrc provider so don't know if anyone has called it in or not. I tried calling but just got pushed to 'hold' with some great panflute music.

I'll be contacting friends about freezer space pretty soon.

Luckily our park has wireless, so I can walk over and check email periodically. Oh and send out quick blog notes as well.

We packed to many

clothes, and forgot a few things that would have been handy. But isn't that always the way.

We just returned from 3 nights on Holbox Island, in Quintana Roo. On this map you can see Merida in the upper left, and then over on the upper right corner is Isla Holbox which isn't actually an island at all but a spit of land, in that it is actually attached to the mainland.

It was a fabulously succesful trip. We went to swim with the whale sharks - and we were in and out of the water with different ones 5 or 6 times during the day.

Here are two of the whalesharks we swam with, the one in the second picture was about 11meters/35feet long. The one in the first picture was not quite as long.

I have some closer up shots but you'll have to wait in them till I blog about the tour.

There are many different things I plan to blog about this trip but some need to be in separate blogs.

One blog will be the drive there and back. We have route, mileage, unmarked turns, etc. It was very difficult for me to get good clear directions, so this is for the next guys wanting to drive without taking the cuota/toll road.

I will also report on the whale shark tour in more detail.

And I will report on the hotel, and some general impressions.

Travel used to be so easy

What ever happened to the days when you could decide at the spur of the moment to take off for the weekend, grab your spare jeans and your toothbrush and be off?

We've decided to go off for a 3-night trip, well we decided a while back - then there was the research, when to go, how to get there, drive or take the bus, what route, where to stay, make excursion reservations in advance or wait, yada, yada, yada.

Then to the packing - Oh my freakin gosh, it's just for 3 nights; there are all the baglets of toilet paper annd hand cleaners-just in case, 3 kinds of bug spray, mosquito plugins and coils, night light, cooler with snacks, water, binoculars, flashlight, washcloths, is the camera battery charged, sunscreen, should I take a hat, what about bird id books? I haven't even gotten to clothes and toiletries yet.

Oh, and I have to pack for the dog who is staying with friends, dogbed, food bowl, bags of pre-portioned food, snacks, stuff to add to food if she gets picky. ARRRRGGGHHHHH - I'm not going it's too much stress.

Oh, and all the instructions for the friend that's going to come daily to feed the cats, and the birds, and the fish, and watch and clean the pool, and water the plants if necessary, oh my gosh, it's just 3 days....

We now live in a red light district

You may remember in a previous post on our ongoing bat problem, I made this statement "So for us - lights 0, bats 1 - fans 0, bats 2 - sound machine 0, bats 3. On to the next bat deterrent."

Well our most recent bat deterrent attempt may just put that score at bats 3, us 1. And let's just say we WON! HA! Day, well night #2 without bat crap everywhere.

In a neighboring yard there is a tree that produces a berry like fruit, similar in shape to a mulberry but it stays green.. It is a HORRIBLE tree. It drops so many berries that then lay on the ground and rot and smell putrid and breed fruit flies, ICK, I hate that tree! Well, the frut bats love this tree, and they like to hang under our patio roof, right over our table and eat and shit these horrid little green berries.

This doesn't even begin to show how icky this is, and this is one nights activity.

BLECH!!

We finally found a 'red' light bulb. We had been told stories of people who know other people for whom red lights work to deter/repel bats. Our red light has been on the past 2 nights and no bat crap. I may be premature in my exuberance, But I am happy to announce it to all, I live in a red light district!

Now you have first hand testimonial. The red light is working for us in deterring bats!

Click here to read what wiki says about red light districts.

Making Sopes

We have a monthly group that gets together to drink.

OKAY we call it a wine tasting, and yes it really is what we do -

A wine is selected, let's say Tempranillo for this post, everyone searches out and reports in when they have made their acquisition, the others are notified so there are no duplicates and they bring their bottle of locally purchased Tempranillo on the appointed night. Everyone typically also brings a little nosh for before the tasting starts. We have plain crackers and light bland cheese for during the tasting, notes are taken, discussion on the nuance and subtleties, yada, yada, yada, just fill the glass will you! Tallies are taken, and the wines are ranked. Fun is had by all.

So, getting to the point of this post -

I can't have a bunch of drunkerds rolling

out of my house and trying to drive home

so I always prepare a little post tasting sumthin

- and the other day I decided to make

sopes (pronounced "SOH-peh") and nopal salad!

Sopes are sort of like a soft taco, except the base is thicker, and has a lovely little ridge to hold all the goodies in. Sopes apparently originated in Culiacán which is a city in northwestern Mexico, and is the largest city in the state of Sinaloa. Sopes are traditionally fried, but I baked mine. Wait, let's start at the beginning -


I stopped in at my local tortilleria

and inquired of the ladies if any of them could provide me with 30 sopes for a price, they just looked at me and said they were easy and I should just buy the masa. OK they are easy...not really the point. They didn't know anyone that would make them for, so hey, I'm retired, I've got plenty of free time...

I'm really bad about recipes, I just cook. So here are my best guesses on what I actually did.

I have varied my sopes from traditional, in that traditionally sopes are made from straight masa - I think they are too tough and dry, so I made mine more like you make an empanada; corn masa, flour, salt, and oil. Of course traditionally you use manteca, rendered pork fat.


SOPES - To 1 1/2 kilos of masa, I added about 1/3 cup of oil, 1 cup of flour, ,and a large pinch of salt, mixed this all by hand and set it aside.

I cut a large baggie so that I had 2 sheets of stiff plastic. I took about a golfball size wad of the prepared masa and squished it between the two sheets till about a 5" circle. Then pinched up the edges to create the lip.









I then placed them on a baking sheet and baked at 160c, the lowest my oven will go for about 15minutes. Then I placed some cheese on some and returned them to the oven for 3-5 minutes.

Don't they look gorgeous, and they are soft and pliable rather than stiff and tough.

For the FILLING I sauteed chopped chayote, zucchini, poblano chili, onion, tomato, garlic, added canned sliced mushrooms and canned corn, and fresh chopped cilantro. Cooked that till still toothy, but not too crunchy, add a bit of chilisal and stir. Set that aside.

I put all the stuff into separate bowls and had the guests prepare their own sopes.

Select a base, put in sauteed filling, add fresh cilantro, and queso freso, then I also had minced onion and habanero mixed with fresh lime juice to add a bit a spiciness.

NOPAL SALAD - 3 paddles or leaves of fresh nopal, cut into 1/2 inch long strips then cut to one inch pieces, and boiled for 20 minutes in lots of salted water. Rinsed several times, then drain and let cool. Chop onion, tomatos, cilantro, mix with the nopal, squeeze 3 or 4 limes onto this, add a bit of salt and let rest. to serve I just add a bit of crumbled panela cheese to the top.

My mom gets worried

So I called my mom the other day and she inquired about whether we had been away again, or if we are ok. I guess because I hadn't posted anything in almost 2 weeks we must either be away, or sick.


Nope, just lazy on my part. I've been doing stuff, and taking photos to be able to blog it, just haven't wanted to sit that long in front of the computer.


I guess that's not really true either, I've been having a lot of trouble with my neck and shoulders; so I've seen a new massage therapist, then to the quiropractico and things are a bit better. We'll see how it goes.


Plus there's just always stuff going on; The new construction project that I should be able to post about next week, the upcoming trip that you won't hear about till we get back, playdates with friends, and so forth and so on. We've attended a number of events, but nothing really to write about, well the kids art sale I should blog just because It Is such a big deal. OK I'm gonna do that one soon.



OK enough, I'm here, I'm ok, just hot, lazy, tired, unmotivated...

Here's a picture of a bench I've seen that I'd like to get built out in the garden,

Oh my gosh, speaking of garden, I have GOT to find a gardener, That thing is killing me, it's to big for us to handle.

Sorry mom, I'll try to blog more often since I don't call all that often. We're fine!

so there we are, waiting for our boat...

To the Apaches, Geromino embodied the very essence of the Apache values, agressiveness and courage in the face of difficulty.

Geronimo is said to have had magical powers. He could see into the future, walk without creating footprints and even hold off the dawn to protect his own.

If only we'd possessed magical powers. On our recent trip to Puerto Vallarta we had cause to book ourselves on a trip aboard the catamaran geronimo. There we were, on the beach, stretched out under a palapa being served by liveried staff when the most charming young lad approached to tell us about the special promotion to Islas Mariettas. It sounded so good, boat, continental breakfast, lunch buffet, drinks, snorkeling with provided gear, kayaking with provided kayaks, beach time, ... ah, if only we'd posessed magical powers.

We arrived at the marina at the apponted time, after a bit of confusion over exactly which marina, but in time none the less; only to be met with a 15peso per person charge to get into the marina to ba able to gain access to the tour for which we had already paid. Sure 15pesos, big deal, but wouldn't you expect admission to the marina to be included in the price especially if you can't get to the boat without entering the marina????

Well so there we are, waiting for our boat, the catamaran geronimo, to arrive. There is a huge walrus on a stand giving kisses to whales I mean tourists while the photographer takes their picture (pictures available for a nominal fee when your tour returns). Oh and there is a macaw also, which you can hold and from whom you may receive a kiss while the photographer takes your photo (photo available for a nominal fee when your tour returns). And we are told we can get coffee, but no I'll just wait for the continental breakfast that's included in my tour fee, but oh, no one said that this is where you get the coffee and pastry portion of your continental breakfast and that only the fruit and juice portion is available on the boat. Lucky for them we had stopped at Starbucks and I had already had my venti. There'd a been hell to pay by gosh!

So we get all loaded up, fortunately there were only 25 or so on the boat, which we are told can handle 95. Oh my freaking gosh if there had been 95 people on tthe boat... But there wasn't, 25 is actually a comfortable number for the boat, room to move, get in the sun, out of the sun.

There was an announcement that on the day previous some tourist had plugged up the ladies room toilet so we all had to use the men's room, which has two stalls - the latch to the stall on the left was broken so the men were to use that one, and the women to use the one with the working door latch. Trust me by the end of the day it was only the stout of heart, mind, and sensibilities that could venture down those stairs. It was evil, evil I tell you.

OK, touchy feely announcements over and we are on our way. I was a gorgeous day, beautiful blue skies with big billowy white clouds. Sea not to rough, and it really was a lovely ride out to Islas Mariettas where we were to be provided with mask, snorkel and fins and if wanted we could hang with the guide to be shown all the treasures of the sea.

Islas Mariettas is a grouping of rock islands with huge openings that form caverns and grottos. It is a bird sanctuary and home to most prominiently Boobies/Boobys.

By the time we got there, almost 2 hours, the water was quite rough, and the visibility was so murky you couldn't see 10 feet below you. As we approached the islands crewmembers came around and offered if we wanted, for a fee, we could either scuba or hookah. Some went for it, but we didn't, I'm so glad now that we didn't. We were then distributed masks and snorkels, fins were reserved for the scubas and hookah'ers. We were offered the use of preserver vests if we wanted. No mention and no effort was made to disengage the 2 plastic kayaks from the stern of the boat. So we snorkeled, we paddeled, we tried to stay away from the surge that threatened to pull you into the rocky walls of the islands. It was great fun, and withing about 20 minutes all but the scuba/hookah users were back on board; where people promptly started to get motion sick, yours truely included. Luckily for me I was only nauseous, and not hurking into plastic cups like the woman across from me.

So here's the boat crew after fruit service, and while just putting away to Islas Mariettas.

Actually, and in all honesty, the crew did a fine job. They have no real controll over anything to do with the tour, and they were personable and attentive.

So with all participants back on the boat, beer and cocktails became available, and the lunch buffet was laid out - Roast chicken, tuna salad, tortilla chips, salsa, sliced bread, and cut tomatoes. With only 25 people on board it wasn't too bad, it was easy and orderly. More drinks were consumed, and we were on our way to the beach at Piedra Blanca, where we could enjoy the beach and swimming.

The geronimo pulls up close-ish to the beach and a small boat comes out to ferry you to the beach, or if you choose you can swim in. The surge at Piedra Blanca was life threatening unless you were tall and could hang out outside the break zone. The new uber fancy resort there denies access to all but a small strip of shadeless beach, and employs guards to ensure you do not rest under the shade of their trees, or even touch their containment wall.

After beach time it is back to the boat for more drinks, music, more drinks, and a bit of a drag performance by a member of the crew to the tune of 'Like a Virgen', and the return trip to the marina.

And the highlight of the day, we saw dolphins on the return trip after Piedra Blanca - the boat capitan stopped, redirected, and got us close so we could watch as they swam along and jumped and played.

It was a long day, not a horrible day, we had some fun, we didn't particularly enjoy all aspects of the day. We were brave, and stalwart, and we showed courage in the face of difficulty; besides life isn't always what you expect.

But, if you hear me say, I'm gonna get you a ticket for the boat, or I'm gonna put you on the boat, you'll know you need to run!

Now for some gratuitous phtos! Just cuz I really like these!

The Kermesse Verbena at Iglesia San Sebastian

The firecrackers started yesterday just before noon. I could hear them as they got closer and closer. It's time for the kermesse verbena at la iglesia de San Sebastián Mártir.

This year the women of the church came by asking for donations for the Kermesse. I gave them 50pesos and signed my name on the list. They blessed the house and thanked me profusely. I feel so much better. Oh, and they delighted in telling me that their, bear with me, I have no religious knowledge; father, padre, pastor, whatever, is American.

So apparently the different gremios, or unions donate or have donated a change of clothing for the senora, and designate women, coordinated with the church to change out the clothing for the responsible gremio for their procession. Each of the 14 days of the kermesse is 'sponsored' by a different gremio, or union. The gremio provides the special outfit for the statue of our lady of asuncion, they ensure the outfit is clean, pressed, and selected members participate in the dressing of the statue. The gremio members make up the procession. In this way the gremio and it's members have another years blessing.

Here are a few photos from one of last years processions.

I only sort of understand what a kermesse verbena is. I know it's from the 5th to the 15th of August this year, and that everyday, or nearly everyday at about 11, or it could be at 10, or maybe noon, the procession will start, they will exit the church, march a few blocks , down past my house around and return to the church. The women will be carrying banner s of their gremio. And they will carry the statue of nuestra senora de la asuncion - I'm not 100% who she is (does she have a name, or is she just symbolic of something, is she Mary?), regardless it's way cool to watch.

So I'm off to ask.com and google to see if I can get some info - if I find out anything I'll report back. If you know anything fill us in...

I know it happens every year, I've attended events, watched the processions, but don't really understand why's and wherefores.

verbena is a fiesta or street party held on the eve a certain saints' days.

Therefore; logic dictates that the statue (nuestra senora de la asunsion) is of the saint being recognized, although the iglesia is san sebastian(male). More research required, just who is this lady of asuncion?

kermesse is an outside fiesta, usually associated with schools? maybe this roughly translates to the gremio/union as well.

so again, speculation by me, maybe the church and school/gremio get to gether and host a street fiesta. My neighbor says it's only the church involved, with the gremios.

Death of a friend!

The old Dell Optiplex GX240 that made the trip here to Mexico is dead.

It's poor little hard drive bit the dust.

I'm going to miss you old friend

I was trying to eradicate all the software and personal info so that I could gift it to the housekeeper for her kids. I was hoping that without all the bulky software and pictures and such it would be up to par for a couple of kids to do their homework and maybe a bit of web-surfing, que lastima. Fortunately housekeeper indicates her brother-in-law is a computer tech and she is confident he can put the ole girl to rights for the kiddies.




However, even before this occured I knew the computer was having issues, it was SLOWWWWWWWWWWW, it froze, it gave us the evil blue screen, it was in need of assistance. I had also upgraded the momory to its MAX of 1 GB. Nothing helped. I off loaded photos, deleted software, defragged, everything I could think of - so knew a new computer was needed, immediately!





I consulted with several people and developed a list of must haves, and would really likes.





Then the internet research began. No internet search includes in-store close outs and specials.




I didn't and don't mind last years model. So even though you think you know what you are going after it can all change in a flash once you walk into a store! I am so pleased with what I got, and the single biggest, and nearly only complaint I found in the online reviews is that the shiny surface shows all the finger prints - WAAAAAAAAAAAAA!




I ended up with a Toshiba Satellite P505D model; it has an 18.4 in screen, 400GB hard drive, and 4GB memory - it's FAST! It has graphics, webcam, cardreader for camera cards, Harmen Kardon speakers, built in wireless, and DVD burner, but unfortunately it comes with Windows Vista. I'm dealing with the Vista.





OHHHHH, Look, see how pretty!




Included in this purchase was a new wireless keyboard and mouse, such a light touch to the new keyboard, in fact I am making lots of errors because I had to really bang on the OLD keyboard.





Oh and the second computer is an ACER Netbook, one of the small 3 pounders, it is adorable, and so easy to travel with. I went with the 10.1 inch monitor instead of the 8.9. but still MUST use my readers for the monitor. Oh and it is RED! WooHoo!

Ah electronics - life is good!

One friend departs, and another enters, oh so fickle.