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Showing posts with label car travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label car travel. Show all posts

Uayma, Yucatan

Between Merida and Izamal, if you take the back roads, there are an abundance of small villages and pueblos.  Some have more interest than others.

We hadn't been through Uayma before and found it neat and  tidy.  It has a lovely big central square and a really beautiful church.  I mean just look at this  -  



















and then there was the interior







and some interesting exterior











postscript (26 March 2013) - I woke during the night wondering about the symbols, as a friend had posted this - The flower of life  Sacred geometry rocks! My favorite; fibonnacci spirals  - in response to a foto I posted on facebook of the church facade.

In searching the internet I found these links with more info on the church at Uayma, and sacred geometry - for your researching pleasure  (as always on posts, the Comments always provide tons of added information!)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uayma
http://www.yucatanliving.com/destinations/day-trip-to-uayma.htm
http://www.yucatantoday.com/en/topics/temple-and-ex-convent-santo-domingo
http://www.mexicanarchitecture.org/glossary/index.php?building=59

http://uayma.blogspot.mx/   this one is quite interesting because it has pre-restoration fotos.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flower_of_Life
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-headed_eagle

This is a rough translation from a reply/comment on a spanish language post -
Here I leave some history on Uayma church, is currently located in the village of Uayma meaning "huayo* Water" during the pre-Hispanic era belonged to the Province of Cupules. Archaeological remains have been found showing that in this town there was an old Mayan village. But what is striking is the church that was actually a Dominican monastery was constructed on 1646 and raised in the second half of the sixteenth and seventeenth century, is best known as the Convent and Church of Santo Domingo de Uayma and decorated Ajaracas* which is an Arab and Modejar ornamentation as bows or ribbons.
*ajaracas are ribbon or trim lines and flowers typical of the Arab and Moorish decor.
*huayo is a fan palm whose fans are used in roof thatching

another rough translation - Former Convent and Church of Santo Domingo, built in the seventeenth century and which was burned in the mid-nineteenth century by the indigenous rebels during the "Caste War" still retains its beauty

our weekend adventure!



Tom and I decided to head off on a little adventure. 
Those of you who know me, know I don't like a lot of planning, at least in my personal life;  Now in business, that's a different story.

So my plan was to drive over to Izamal, do a walk about, see some of the stuff we've not seen before, and some stuff we have seen before. Stay the night in a hotel many friends rave about that is owned by a couple we've met but don't actually know.Then next day, after some more walking about drive up to ek balam.  I found a great eco-hotel on the internet, just 300 meters from an entrance to ek balam, amazing grounds, pools, trails, birdwatching, people that work in animal care, fostering, adopting out, spay n neuter clinics - you know all this appeals to me! so stay 2 nights there, then drive up to San Felipe and poke around, eat some seafood and come home.  Just a weekend getaway.  Plus give us, and a new house/pet sitter a chance to see if we are a fit!


So we got away Friday, about 2pm, Tom had an appointment.  We decided to take the Chevy; yucatan plates, better gas mileage, etc.  Big bottle of water, bag of carrots sticks, cucumber sticks, and cherry tomatoes and we were off.  Tom bought and wanted to bring a big bag of chips, but thankfully forgot about them.


Drive to Izamal was uneventful, after a slight wrong turn on my part, we were soon righted.  We did drive through a number of small quaint picturesque villages. We spent a small bit of time in Uayma.  I'll make that a separate post because of the photos.  But here's a teaser - 





Hotel - Izamal

We got to the hotel.  The first room they showed us, king bed, was right on the street (packed diryt street, so quite dusty), and when we inquired about the noise it was implied it could be noisy from traffic  -  no thanks.  next room, queen bed, trundle bed, and kitchenette, a bit of overkill and quite pricey at 850pesos per night, but off the street, and what was left.  so alrighty then.  Asked for and received a fan, but even that couldn't cool off the room, so resorted to the air conditioner.  
The grounds are nice, landscaped with wandering pathways between all the rooms/cabanas, the reception/dining room is spacious and blissfully has lots of fans, and wifi, although a quite weak signal - wifi is not available in room, sort of a pain.  Pool at the rear of the property is attractive.  two parrots in an enclosure next to the reception area add a bit of jungle ambiance, and a couple of friendly cats give it a homey feel.

Our room was decorated in what I would call yard sale greek island cast offs. Shower head needs a good cleaning, but plenty of hot water and sufficient pressure which was nice. But WTH, two bars of rosa venus soap?????  Blech! Kitchenette was sort of silly, but having the fridge was nice, although it froze our water bottle and nearly froze the veggies  -  there were coffee filters, but no coffee maker, one very small pan, and a single burner hot plate. No condiments. but having a fridge was nice, did I say that already?
Staff was friendly, but we never saw the owners. So overall it's an ok place to stay, a short easy walk to historic centro, and the large piramide. Also a number of tallers and artist studios in walking distance. Being vegetarian, and understanding that the owners are, I expected a better vegetarian selection on their menu. Oh, a full breakfast is included in the room rate.
I sent an inquiry about a room through their website on early on 22 March, and as of today still have had no reply. Would we stay here again??? NAH?


While in Izamal we did a lot of walking about, up and down many streets, we went in to a number of tallers and artist studios. We sat quite a while in the evening in the main square people watching and enjoying the breeze. We visited 2 piramides - el Conejo and Kinich Kakmó. The view from Kinich Kakmó alone is worth the climb. It was pleasant.
Next day, after climbing the piramides we returned to the hotel, had breakfast, showered, packed, checked email, checked out and hit the road.  We were on the road by about noon, or noonthirty.

On our way to ek balam we drove back roads through all the small villages and pueblitos - stopped at churches, stopped at parks... we drove through Valladolid and stopped at the restaurant at hotel maria de la luz. Had lunch, walked around a bit, enjoyed the park, and continued on towards ek balam, again deciding on the small back roads.

We reached ek balam and had just a bit of trouble locating our 2 night stay eco hotel, Genesis Retreat! 

Hotel/Eco Retreat Genesis is a bit rundown,   or at least the pictures were taken quite a while ago.  I think they should use the word Hostel in their advertising. They showed us two rooms, we didn't like either, the first utilized the communal bathroom, not a shared bathroom, but a pack up your stuff and walk across the compound bathroom. Been there done that, not what I had planned for this getaway. The other - the BirdHouse would have worked, it was second story so the breeze would have been good - once evening had set. there was a swinging bed, but barely enough room between it and the walls to walk beside it. There was an ensuite full bathroom but you had to walk out on to the open balcony and to the side where the suspended spiral staircase is and enter there, all exposed to the compound. No one wants to see either Tom or I walking about in the buff, drying off, getting dressed etc, because if you close the doors to the sleeping chamber I'm not sure there is enough room there to move around around. The room was hot, we were hot, there was a visible fan, but no a/c, it was dry and dusty.  Perhaps had we arrived fresh ....  But the no a/c was a deal breaker for Tom.

I was more than disappointed.  Now we needed to find new lodging.  So off we went, first inside the village of ek balam, didn't see anything of interest, then on the highway towards Valladolid.  The first place we stopped is brand new Xaman'Ek
This would have been a great place to stay, but unfortunately no air conditioner.  850pesos, but with lots of amenities. You know how Tom likes ac  when he travels, oddly, we rarely use it at home, but we have good airflow and he has both an overhead fan and a fan beside the bed for when it is hot.  
Next was another brand new, but no visible name motel, basic motel room, tv, ac, unfortunately it was in the middle of nowhere with only a bar across the street, and the pool is still under construction.   So continuing on we stop just on the outskirts of Valladolid, Full. So we did what we knew we could, we went to the the Hotel Maria de la Luz.  We got a room, basic hotel room, nothing special, I think it was 550 pesos for the night.  We dropped off our stuff and set off.  We wandered about, took in some sights, enjoyed the breeze.  As we were walking a young fellow passed a flyer to us, a free margarita, just around the corner.  SCORE!

This is Tom's review for TripAdvisor about la Chispa - Not often do we go we take advantage of flyers being distributed on the street.  What got us to go this time was that there was a free margarita being offered.  Now that's not unusual but we had just been talking about wanting margaritas a few seconds before receiving the flyer offering us a free one at La Chispa.  Fate often delivers in a big way and this was one of those times.  Greeted at the door, walked to our seats, menus provided, flyer handed over and the waiter was off to get our margs.  The setting was very nice in a hacienda type setting. A few minutes later a new person walks up with our drinks and asks where we are from.  That started a conversation with Eduardo, the owner and self proclaimed, manager, waiter, cook, bartender, bus boy and whatever else he needed to be in order to ensure that his patrons are treated well and have a very enjoyable time. Trust me when I say he delivers in a big big way!  Since he was the "jefe" I asked for his recommendation and it was the arrachera (marinated flank steak).  Superb!  It melted in my mouth.  His other suggestion was the queso fondido (melted cheese) with longaniza sausage.  Longaniza is a specialty of Valladolid.  Even though I didn't order it he brought me out a small bowl to try.  It was the best longaniza I ever had!  My wife is a vegetarian and lactose intolerant and sometimes has a hard time finding something to eat as Mexico is a very meat intensive culture.  She asked Eduardo about getting some ingredients on a couple of the menu items changed to accommodate her wants and he said that they would do whatever she wanted.  Eduardo suggested a change and my wife said the dish was very good!  Oh, and the margaritas were top notch!
A superb experience that will happen again for sure!

La Chispa

Calle 41 #201 CentroValladolidMexico,  
856 26 68

Next morning we were up early and out the door heading to ek balam.  we go to the gate about 7:30am and did a bit of birdwatching, excellent birding opportunities.  Once the gates opened we were the first to enter ek balam that day!  We had inquired about a discount for Tom because of his INAPAM card.  What we got was free entry, for both of us because on Sundays Nationals get in to INAH sites for free.  I guess we're now Nationals because we are Residente Permanente.  SCORE!

ek balam is a great site. Directional signage is non existent, and the structure signage is so basic.  Regardless the piramides and structures are way cool.  I had the deja vu thing several times.  I restricted myself to climbing the two largest structures, the views are amazing.

Here are a few ekbalam site fotos - 











ok,  I have things that must get done - the rest of the trip tomorrow!

Road Trip - Merida to Holbox Hwy176

I am cross posting this to my WordPress blog. I think I am going to start using WordPress, I am having issues with Blogger and this new computer that uses Vista.


One of the problems I encountered in trying to plan our trip to Isla Holbox in Quintana Roo was how to get there. I read all sorts of stuff on the internet. Most of it incomplete or misleading, or inacurate, or any combination of the aforementioned. Plus most everyone talked about taking the cuota/toll road. What's up with that - why pay all that money in tolls? We decided with all this uncertainty to just drive it ourselves and to keep notes of our route and to report back. Unfortunately I didn't stop to take photos at turns or landmarks, so you just have to go by my meager descriptions.

We live in the San Sebastián area of Centro here in Mérida. I give a starting point of Ave Quetzalcoatl (calle 65 in Centro) and the Periferico because it is a common starting point for many leaving the City.

For the sake of this post, and to keep from getting pulled over, we traveled at the posted speed limits which were most of the time 80 - 110 kph.
Also keep in mind this trip was at the last week of August 2009, for when I mention construction or road blocks, etc.
* The trip took us approx 170miles/274kilometers and about 3 1/2 hours each way - we stopped for a potty break going, and a lunch break coming back.
* I make no guarantees about these directions, I wrote them as best I could while also watching for signage, checking mileage, and checking the time.


So from Ave Quetzalcoatl at the Periferico you turn left towards Progresso - proceed and follow the signs that will direct you towards Tizimin and Motul (Rt 176), at the sign to Tizimin/Motul you bear Right. (This is at the Avenida Yucatan exit on the Periferico.) To this point the signage is very good. The posted speed on the road to Motul is 90kph, but we were getting passed by most of the few cars that were out. About 5k before Motul there was a lot of construction. The Hwy splits with the Left fork to Tizimin, and the Right fork to Motul; unless you want Huevos Motuleños, take the Left fork towards Tizimin.

At this point the Hwy is very good, and signage is pretty good, the only confusion for us was when we came upon big blue/white direction signs for Beach Areas - Telchac Puerto, San Felipe, Rio Logartos. These are actually the by-pass routes from all the small towns along the way. So if you want to make haste and not visit the small towns follow the Beach Area signs (Telchac Puerto, San Felipe, Rio Logartos). So, for example at the split to Suma de Hidalgo take the Left fork towards Telchac Puerto, San Felipe, Rio Logartos, at Temax split take the Right fork towards Telchac Puerto, San Felipe, Rio Logartos, at Buctzotz take the Right fork... Through this area there are a lot of old Haciendas, both in use and in ruin. The land also opens up into pasture land and you will see lots of Brahma cattle, as well as goats. And some really HUGE old trees.

Entering Tizimin - Tizimin is tough, there are no signs - Follow the Hwy into Tizimin, follow through to a glorietta, merge into the glorietta but go straight through. NOTE once you've come to the Main Square in Tizimin there are some old faded battered signs for Col. Yucatan, once you've seen the first you know what to look for, but must keep your eyes open. Go 2 blocks and take a left, there is an old faded green sign that says Col. Yucatan - you come next to the main square in Tizimin, go around the square and turn Right at the Church but stay to the left as you will make a quick jig to essentially stay straight. There is a stop light and you should see the BanComer. There is another faded sign for Col. Yucatan. Progress on but keep vigilant for another faded sign for Col Yucatan, make the Left continue to the stop sign and make a Right.

You are now on Hwy 27 - It's easy going now, just stay on the Hwy till you get to Col. Yucatan.

There is a lot of construction going on in Col Yucatan, and again signage to get through town is non-existent. The Hwy you are on enters Col. Yucatan and T-Bones, meaning it stops and you must turn left or right. In my neighborhood we call that a chop calle. So at the T-Bone in Col. Yucatan you turn Right towards La Sierra, not Left towards El Cuyo. You go just a short distance along what appears to be dirt road and on the left you will see a small chapel, at the chapel you turn left. It's a mess, there are detour/desviacion signs, just go past them... Continue on, the dirt road gives way to solid again. Then next sign you are looking for is Teapa, go towards Teapa; however if you need to ask directions anywhere in Col Yucatan ask how to get to Kantunilkin. After the Teapa sign it is a straight shot to Kantunilkin. This is a small Hwy, one lane in each direction, lots of topes/speed bumps, and lots of fresh produce, fruit, drinks, etc.

At some point before Kantunilkin you will enter Quintana Roo.

Entering Kantunilkin it is easy, and there are good signs to direct you towards Isla Holbox.

You are actually trying to get to Chiquila which is where you get the ferry/lancha across to Holbox. Although the ferry runs about every 2 hours you don't need to worry about it. There are boatmen there waiting, and for the same amount of money (60mxp p/p) they will take you across, of course they'll wait for a a few extra people.

GAS - we didn't notice any PEMEX stations between Tizimin and Chiquila. We stopped in Sucilá and topped off, mainly because I needed to use the Damas/Ladies.

Upon arrival in Chiquila you will need to locate parking, there are lots of lots/estacionamientos around the dock. - This is neither a recommendation nor endorsement - We used don Patricio @50mxp per day. don Patricio, once you enter the glorietta you take the first Right and he is on the Right. The spaces were covered, there was a man on staff during the night we were told, and there was a big metal gate that they rolled shut and padlocked at night or so we were told. Our car was exactly where we left it when we returned. No money or paperwork exchanged hands until we returned when I handed the man 150mxp and we drove away.

It is a short walk across to the dock. There are lots of little loncherias, it costs 3mxp to use the Damas at the PEMEX which was dirty and had no paper, luckily I know to travel with my own paper and hand gel.

So now you've gotten yourself to Chiquila - How do you get back to Merida -

From Chiquila you head straight South to Kantunilkin, approx 27 miles. At Kantunilkin you turn Right at the statue (a pillar with a bust), there is no sign.

Straight on till Col Yucatan, approx 17miles. You come to a 3-way stop, go Right a short distance then turn Left towards Tizimin.

Once again Tizimin is tough, there are no signs, you come in differently than you left so nothing is familiar. Entering Tizimin, there is a park on your left, then a sports field with a long white wall. The one-way street you are on deadends, You turn Right onto calle 49, at calle 48 you turn Right, at calle 55 you enter and go around the square, go Right by the San Francisco de Assis store, then keep on straight to a greenish gazebo with a dome set in a small green space right in front of you. Stay to the Right of this structure. There will be a small zoo/park on your right.

From here you just stay on the Hwy, and follow the well marked signs all the way back to Merida.

The Hwy enters Merida here at the Periferico crossing through to to Ave Yucatan.


So there you have it! My version of There and Back Again!

We packed to many

clothes, and forgot a few things that would have been handy. But isn't that always the way.

We just returned from 3 nights on Holbox Island, in Quintana Roo. On this map you can see Merida in the upper left, and then over on the upper right corner is Isla Holbox which isn't actually an island at all but a spit of land, in that it is actually attached to the mainland.






It was a fabulously succesful trip. We went to swim with the whale sharks - and we were in and out of the water with different ones 5 or 6 times during the day.

Here are two of the whalesharks we swam with, the one in the second picture was about 11meters/35feet long. The one in the first picture was not quite as long.

I have some closer up shots but you'll have to wait in them till I blog about the tour.



There are many different things I plan to blog about this trip but some need to be in separate blogs.



One blog will be the drive there and back. We have route, mileage, unmarked turns, etc. It was very difficult for me to get good clear directions, so this is for the next guys wanting to drive without taking the cuota/toll road.



I will also report on the whale shark tour in more detail.



And I will report on the hotel, and some general impressions.