Weekend on Cozumel, and 'Taste of Playa' del Carmen

Last year we went, for the first time, to the Taste of Playa event held in Playa del Carmen.   I've looked back and can't believe I didn't write about it???!!!!!

Anyway The event has been happening since 2009,  here's their webpage.

So we went last year with a group of friends, some of whom had been the year prior, and at their recommendation we purchased VIP tickets.

We again purchased VIP tickets for this year.   VIP tickets allow you in an hour earlier than the General Public, it affords you a reserved area with tables and chairs (in the General Public area there are only a few scattered high tables at which you can stand, if you can get near them).

Last year we stayed for 3 nights in Playa del Carmen, this year we decided to go first and spend 2 nights on Cozumel, get the ferry to Playa the morning of the event, which opens for VIPs at 2pm, stay that night in Playa then return to Merida Monday afternoon.

We traveled as a group of 8, via ADO bus lines, can't beat bus travel in Mexico.  Oddly, the return trip seemed much longer than the going trip????

First destination was Cozumel.  Tom and I love Cozumel, we've been visiting since the early 80's.  Boy oh boy has that island changed.

We boarded our 6:40AM bus and were in Playa del Carmen in no time.  A quick dash and straight on to the 11am ferry for a 45 minute ride to the island.  The water was rough, and it got pretty darn messy on that ferry, we were sure glad when those doors opened up, let me tell you!

Most of Tom's and my experiences on Cozumel are as divers.  There used to be not much else to do; rent a jeep or moped and drive around the island, spend some time on the windward side, take the dirt track to the ruins of Gervasio, try to get to el faro, OR snorkel, dive, eat, and drink.

Mostly we dove, ate, and drank, but drank sparingly, drinking and diving don't go so well together.  This trip wasn't much different, except for the diving.  We did take our snorkel stuff and go snorkeling, but only once, there was some weather front that was keeping the water up, in fact one day the harbor was closed so that the dive boats couldn't even go out.

We have a few favorite places to eat - for lunch we've always loved Ernesto's.  After an early rise and a few hours on a dive boat, and diving food is all you can think about and Tom and I both remember getting off that boat, gathering up our gear and most days heading straight for Ernesto's for a few cold beers and fajitas.

 Well Ernesto's was right there where we last left it, 

and the most amazing thing, 

after all these years, 

and as many times as we've eaten there, 

we met Ernesto!

and the beers are just as cold, 

and the fajitas are just as good as we remember them.

Another frequented restaurant, for dinner is El Moro, I took no pictures, in fact I'm shocked at how few pictures I took over the whole weekend.

Here's their web page 

It's funny, but their clientele is mostly gringo divers.  

Guess it's not funny, it's just what it is.

Tom and I have been on friendly terms with Ray, one of the owners for years.  We email, share photos!  In fact he contacted us when his daughter decided she wanted to study here in Merida.  Unfortunately she didn't like being so far from home, so she returned and completed her studies there!   Ray is SO proud!

One cool thing that happened, the taxi driver that took us there gave us a really good suggestion which we tried the next night, La Perlita!

We all agreed that it was very good.  La Perlita doesn't seem to have it's own webpage, but I found this   http://cozumelmexico.net/Restaurant_La_Perlita.html

although I didn't take any photos our friend Manju took this really good one of Tom and me

and like el Moro they have facebook, twitter, and some other little socialnetwork thing that I can't now remember.

Anyway, we ate, we drank, we took long walks, we snorkeled, that was Cozumel.

Sunday AM had us back on the ferry returning to Playa del Carmen.

The Taste of Playa event was fabulous again. 

 There are some issues, and complaints about the 'VIP' status.  You pay 40USD person, this gets you 20 chits, chits are used to buy your tastes, 1, 2, or 3 chits per item. It also gets you into a reserved seating area, and in to the Tasting event an hour before General Admission.   Unfortunately many of the vendors also seemed to be getting there at 2, and with no controls, the General Public was also coming in at 2.  The lack of  controls also allowed everyone to enter the VIP seating area.  We, being a party of 8, always had someone holding our seats so that was one thing.

The food was fabulous, being vegetarian, actually pescatarian (I still eat seafood) I found LOTS of options, and was stuffed well before my chits ran out.

Based on this I'm not sure we'd buy VIP again!, But we'd definitely go again, although there is a big Music festival here in Merida over the same weekend, so we might have to alternate????

It was a fun weekend.  A bit short, but whatchagonnado!

the view from my hotel balcony on Cozumel, the view the other way was the ocean!

I do love bus travel

Growing up in Fairfax County Virginia, just a stones throw from Washington DC I remember always riding the bus to get to and from, well, whatever.  I remember once my mom had this little Renualt, but I don't recall having it for very long.  So we walked, took the bus, and occasionally got a cab. Buses didn't have the stigma they do now.  It was OK to ride a bus.  The ran all through the region, you bought a ticket and if needed got transfer slips to get you to your next bus if travelling long distances.  They were clean.

Coming in to my teen years I remember taking the bus in to Alexandria's Old Town to go shopping, go to the skating rink or the White Tavern for burgers with friends.  I also remember going into DC to visit the Smithsonian Museums.  I liked the bus, it gave me freedom.

Then when I was about 17 or 18 I decided I needed a car.  I was working at a Membership Department Store, GEM.  I was also living with my grandmother.

My grandmother offered to buy me a car, I seriously considered an Opal.  I declined that offer and bought myself  a Blue 64 Plymouth Valiant, a push button automatic, with a hole about 2/3rds up the gas tank and a headliner that was coming down, and sunvisors cracked and splitting. This was about 1972.  I loved that car. It was mine, no strings, no threats,  all mine. I even paid my own insurance.  I knew there would be too many games and threats of having to relinquish the keys if I allowed my grandmother to assist with any of the costs.

Buying that car pretty much ended my use of buses.  Then buses changed, stigma.

Now, 40 years later and I am back to loving buses.  Well not the Merida city buses, they are driven by madmen.  I've often said that using city buses in Merida is not a spectator sport, it is full contact.

But for travelling distances, you can't beat the buses.  The ADO fleet is made up of 3 class buses; the ADO, ADO GL, and ADO Platino.  We recently took a trip to Belize. Eight of us went, we took the bus, and not one of the top of the line buses either.  Padded seats that recline, see through pull down shades, or dark curtains on the windows, you choose which you want to use. TV monitors for the movies they play, air conditioning, overhead storage, enough leg room to cross your legs if you want, and even bathrooms.

Here in the Yucatan, which is a flat limestone shelf, we aren't afforded the beauty of striking vistas.  But that does not make the travel unappealing.  In fact it is anything but.

The views are a symphony for your eyes.  Sometimes beautiful and melodic, sometimes discordant and a little disconcerting, and other times an explosion of vignettes of life.

Our recent trip was like that for me.  Sitting by the window with my eyes unfocused just watching the scenes as we sped by, like flash cards

chickens scratching through the debris under a ramon tree by the side of the road

skinny little dogs stretched out in the shade beside a building.

a man seen through the cracks of the thin log structure of his house, lying in his hammock with a baby sitting up on his stomach.

women in the side yard washing clothes in a batea and hanging them over bushes and fence.

a horse tethered to a stake by the side of the road munching on the grasses there

a store front offering flashes of red and yellow as they advertise coke and the PRD.

kittens playing in an empty lot

a young couple in a romantic clench, kissing and touching, just inches from the side of the road as we swept by, not even flinching as their hair and clothes blew from the wind disturbance we created.

goats lazily crossing the street

short elderly women in bleached white huipiles with loads of sticks and small logs in a cloth bundle on their backs held in place by a cloth strap around their foreheads as they emerged from a cut in the woods.

middle aged women in stretchy shorts and t-shirts with slogans like 'I'm sexy and I know it' walking to some unknown by me destination.

four young men all bent over peering in to a bucket

birds flitting between trees, doves lined up on the overhead wires, tales flicking to maintain balance

piles of burning leaves and household trash smoldering

young girls combing each others hair and giggling over some secret told in whispers

a windmill with its blades spinning slowly in the afternoon heat.

a small stand and group of people gathered at a tope with things to sell the passers by as they slow; mandarinas, plastic cups of cut mango, cucumber, and melon, wedges of pan de elote, or sweet crackers, bottle of aguas de pitaya, jamaica and horchata.

a man sitting in his car reading por esto

a wooden table a scale with slabs of meat hanging above from hooks, and a fellow standing there sharpening his knife while he chats up the woman explaining what she wants.

we pass stands of fruits and veggies, homemade treats, and hand crocheted items

people laughing, sitting, strolling, animals, trees, bushes, flowers, limbs, discarded tires, even this morning I recall it vividly, as if flash cards are being turned over in rapid succession.

Yes, I do love bus travel, it offers me the freedom to take all this in, unhindered

to Belize and back again! Getting there!

A Group of us, and for whatever reason we seem to travel in packs these days, just got back from a few days trip to Ambergris Caye, Belize.

Tom and I, as divers, have been to Belize and the Caye's a number of times, but never Ambergris.   We always shunned it because it was 'the' place to go.

We started off from the local CAME bus station at 7:30 AM.  The ADO buses are quite nice, comfy seats that recline, TV screens where they blast movies at you the entire trip, gotta love those mp3 players and headphones.  Plenty o AC, brrrrrrr!
and an on board bathroom.

The trip from Merida to Chetumal is 5 1/2 to 6 hours depending on travel conditions, with a short stop about midway for potty and snack break.  We chatted, laughed, read, watched silly movies, listened to music or podcasts, snacked, and watched the scenery pass by.  I must say, bus travel is THE way to go!

We arrived in Chetumal, and caught taxis to the muelle (dock) where the ferry to transport us to Ambergris would leave.  Bought our tickets, checked our bags and walked a short distance to a great little seafood place that apparently has a branch here in Merida.

after some fabulous fish tacos and a beer, well that's what I had, we went back to the dock, went through Immigration (leaving Mexico entering Belize) and we were nearly there!

At the dock all our checked luggage was lined up on the side of the dock and we were requested  to place our hand luggage in a line in the center of the dock.  We were then all asked to stand away.  The sniffer dog did two or three passes and we were cleared to retrieve our stuff and board!  Pretty cool!

Oh, current fees for exiting Mexico and entering Belize -
our ferry was 37.50usd p/p
I believe there would have been an Exit the Country fee of some sort except that we are residents of Mexico.
and a port fee of 5usd p/p
I read a lot of forum discussion on these port fees, opinions vary on whether they are legal or not!  Regardless, you want to ride, you pay the fee!

ok, so now we are ready for our hour and a half boat ride!  During the trip the young purser passed around a box of cookies and snacks for us to each take one, and he pushed a cooler into the aisle with water and sodas - full service - although I never looked to see if there was a head!

sit back, relax, and enjoy the very bumpy ride!

arriving at the dock on Ambergris Caye

Manana, Being There!

Why didn't you just rent a car?

Quite a few people have asked that question.

First, we didn't want to drive. To deal with parking, which is quite expensive, the cheapest parking available at any of the places we stayed, if offered, was 15 € per day, plus IVA. Then there is gas, and insurance, and speed limits, and can you right turn on red, what are the rules on passing, ack, no thanks!

 

Besides, you get to see any and everything you want to while seated in a bus or train.

 

And although I did snatch this foto off the web, we actually did drive right by the Guggenheim and got a really good view of it was we passed through, well around, Bilbao.

Or you can nap, or use their free wifi, use the aseo, get a beverage...


And you can get anywhere, it just takes a little work, and asking questions to figure out how to get from point A to point B, or C.

On three separate travel days, passing long distances we spent an average of 70€. We had quite a few non travel days, and most of our travel days were less than 10€.

So for us, it's planes, trains, and automobiles all the way, oh, and throw in some buses, taxis, a boat or two, and the Metro.

In fact, I am writing and posting this from our bus back to Madrid. Tomorrow is the long haul from Madrid via Amsterdam to Houston.

 

Getting from Haro to Segovia, 23 July 2012

Haro to Segovia

It's not the easiest thing to get out of Haro, especially on a weekend. So we stayed till Monday. We could have stayed longer. Haro will get a big write up, later.

We caught our 12:45pm bus out of Haro, heading to Burgos. It was an easy ride and the scenery was awesome.

We got to Burgos at about 2:45 and were expecting about a 40 minute wait for our next bus to get to Madrid.  We went to the ticket counter, which had a quite long line, only to discover it was full, next bus out was at 5:30.  So, whatcha gonna do, we bought our tickets, put our bags in a locker and went off to explore.  Burgos warrants a good visit, its huge, and looks o be full of cool stuff.  The bus station just happens to be close to the catedral which is incredible, so we walked over, around, and in that. We were also close to the river, which is lovely, and has great walking spaces, and statues and monuments and huge trees full of birds,  So we walked there, and in two squares, and down a few streets, and then decided to go ahead and get lunch.  Good thing too, as it would turn out.

This ride was a little long, but again the scenery was awesome.  We got to the bus/metro station, made our way from bus to Metro, found a kiosk, bought our metro pass and found our first metro, rode it, got off, switched to the next and got to the location for the bus to Segovia. The ticket counter for the Sepulvida Bus to Segovia was a little tricky to find, but it all worked. We got our tickets and just did have time for potty breaks while the line queued to board the bus.

So here we are, 10:17pm,  looking at arriving in Segovia about 11:30pm. Should be just in time for the evening stroll.

It's great having internet at the bus station and on the bus.  I can key this up, I booked our room for the night, and we can look at a map and get our route from the bus station to the hotel,  As well as plan our events for the next 2 days.

Tuesday, 10 July, traveling to Portugal

Tuesday, 10 July, traveling to Portugal

We left Sevilla, España at 3pm, about 4:30pm we passed in to Portugal and shortly therefter made a super quick stop in Castro Marim. Castro Marim has a huge castle which would be really cool to explore. Castro Marim sits along the river, and has a definite beach resort feel about it.

The ride so far has been quite enjoyable, the scenery has been lovely. The seats are a bit narrow, at least by our big butt American standards. There are plenty of open seats on the bus for us to spreadout should we so desire.

As soon as we passed in to Portugal we passed several small communities built on to the hillside and all houses are white with red tile roofs.

Oh, and no stop at Customs was required. We did have to show our passports to buy the tickets, but so far no one has asked to see them.

So apparently we are completely wrong about our bus route because we now see what appears to be the Ocean on our left. Ok, a sign just confirmed, we are passing Tavira, which is in fact on the ocean/sea.

We have made several stops. Quite tedious - should you ever find yourself in the bus station in Faro, don't, nuff said!

So a while ago we pull into a gas station restaurant combo, we think ok, refill. Nope, think again, 30 minute break, arrrrggghhhhh, just get me to frickin Lisbon. So we walk around abit then decide to see if he restaurant or the gas station has wifi, the gas station does so in we go, unfortunately we couldn't connect. BUT, we found, ok, hold your breath, Ketchup flavored Ruffles.

 

Yep, I know, who is the genius that thought this up. Of course I bought a bag, in spite of having to listen to Tom's derision, and the heavy price tag. 1.85€ yipes! But oh after that first chip flavor exploded in my mouth, heaven!

Back on the road, landscape has changed more rolling hills and open spaces than he hilly mountainous before. Lots more livestock, cattle, sheep. Before it was more agricultural. Still lots of sunflower fields, and olive trees have changed or citrus.

One thing I've noticed is how much I miss a vista, a view, the horizon. In Mérida, for those of you who've not been, we are flat. The peninsula is on a limestone shelf and for the most, there are of course the exceptions, we are very flat. I think that lack of physical view or vista translates into our perceptions as well, I feel more open. Like I now have more breadth. I don't feel like I miss out in Mèrida, I just feel like i become content in a smaller area, more content in my encapsulation.

Oh boy, we're starting to see fields of grapevines.

We made it! We're in Lisbon, in our room, ready for bed after eating a great meal, and drinking yet another great bottle of wine, white this time.

I'll have to add pictures later. Adding pictures with Blogsy is a real pain. But I'll do it, honest! Just keep checking back!


 

Buses and Bus Terminals of Mérida, Yucatán

Friends John and Jane have a blog, several blogs actually, and now quite a few books out there as well.

You can access all their stuff through this blog link

One of the things they've posted about, and have recently updated is about taking buses and colectivos here in Merida and the surrounds.

They have put together a very concise listing of bus stations and destinations, along with photos of the stations.

This is Must Have info, you should bookmark this for future reference.

bus travel - Merida to Playa del Carmen

* edit - all prices mentioned are in MXP (pesos)

We just returned Thursday evening from Cozumel. We've had friends, in differing groups visiting since May 30. The most recent couple visiting were going to be with us only 3 nights then head to Cozumel, we decided to head with them. It was a whirlwind trip, only 2 nights. We left Tuesday on the 9:40 bus, and got home Thursday evening about 8pm.

My intent for this blog isn't so much about the trip to Cozumel as it is about the 'getting' to Cozumel.

I had significant difficulty trying to get specific info on the buses, stations, locations, etc.

So here's what I learned.

I elected to travel via ADO. ADO GL offers a few additional extras that didn't seem to justify the extra expense to me for a short trip like this; Both ADO and ADO GL offer movies and or music, a/c (take a wrap because they keep it icy cold), restroom (take paper and sanitizing hand gel), reclining cushioned seats, window shades, ADO GL offers separate mens and womens bathrooms, baby changing area, a coffee/water/tea dispenser, and I think you get a soda when you board. Both buses list 5hrs 10min to 5hrs 35min as travel times
ADO was $286, ADO GL was $344, oh and they do give half price fares to those with the MX Govt INAPAM card.

Ticket Bus has good schedules; the site is a bit difficult to navigate, although they do show all levels of buses available within your search parameters. Be aware if you don't know which terminal you want in a location with more than one it can be frustrating.

We left from the ADO 1st class station "CAME" in Merida, which is located on Calle 70, between Calle 69 and 71, Centro.

Getting info from the attendants at CAME about which station we would arrive at in Playa del Carmen was frustrating. They really don't seem to know anything but what shows up on their computer terminal, and that didn't tell them much. And in typical Yucatecan fashion, they told me what they thought I wanted to hear, whether it was correct or not.

In Playa del Carmen there are two bus terminals. The older Terminal Turistica o Terminal Rustica, which is at 5th and Juarez is just 2 convenient blocks from the ferry. Unfortunately it only services 2nd class and local buses. The newer Terminal Alterna at 20th Avenue between Calle 12 and Calle 12Bis is where the 1st class buses arrive and depart; this is only about 8 blocks from the ferry, and if you've packed light can be a pleasant walk through the shopping area, taxis are available - we were charged $40 to be driven the distance from the Alterna Terminal to the Ferry.
Travel Yucatan has a pretty good PDC map, click here it shows the locations of the 2 bus terminals, and the ferry.

The Terminal codes for Merida Came are MEY, and for Playa del Carmen Alterna are PDC.

From Playa to Merida there is offered an Express Service, no stops, 4 hours and 15 minutes, these buses depart 0630, 1030, 1330, 1530, 1730, and 2359.

I'll have to go check on this Express Service availability at the CAME station and report back.

Oh, just FYI - the Ferry from Playa to Cozumel also gives half price discounts to INAPAM card holders. Regular ferry fare one-way is $140.