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Showing posts with label Florence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Florence. Show all posts

IN SOLIS SIS TIBI TURBA LOCIS, yeah, I know, sounds like Latin to me too!

While in Florence Italy recently Tom and I were on a walkabout in the not so touristy area on the Oltrarno side of the Arno river.  

we came across this beautiful building with this above the entry doorway

IN SOLIS SIS TIBI TURBA LOCIS

(In solitude, be a multitude to thyself), this phrase is attributed to Tibullus.
Albius Tibullus (ca. 55 BC – 19 BC)



We of course didn't know what it meant at the time and speculated, because of the size of the building, and it's location and quantity of large windows that it could possibly be a tuberculosis retreat.

You can, with fair certainty postulate that I have NO Latin studies in my background!

I bring this up just because, as I have always asserted, Travel Broadens Your Mind

 I mean had I never traveled to Italy, had I not traveled across that bridge, had I not seen the tower that lead me on the circuitous walk that brought me to pass this building, I would never have known of Tibullus!
wiki says this about Tibullus


Lawrence Alma-Tadema: Tibullus at Delia's. 1866 Oil on wood Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, USA

a few detail shots of part of the building






The Knights are great in Florence

Friends of ours from Mexico, they used to live in Merida and now live in Ajijic are on a cruise that stops at enough ports to make your head spin, AND they offer so many excursions that you couldn't possibly do them all.

Anyway, the Knights had a day trip planned for Florence today, Monday, 9 September.

And well, since we're here, and since we haven't seen each other in a really long time, we decided to have lunch together.

We decided to meet up in the Piazzo Vecchio. We all got there at the appointed time.

 

We had a great reunion and then we went to an Osteria (a restaurant specializing in local foods and wines) nearby, and ate and drank the afternoon away

 

 

We laughed so much, just like old times!

Then just a bit of shopping as we walked back to their rendezvous point. What a FABULOUS afternoon. I couldn't have asked for a better surprise!

 

 

It was a fabulous afternoon!

 

Travelogue - Florence is testing my resolve

In July 2012 I gave up buying, cooking, eating, wearing (unless I already owned it) animal. That is, anything with feet. I still eat eggs, and seafood, although I'd like to give up eggs.

We are in Florence Italy, in the Santa Croce neighborhood, where for centuries tanners and leather craftsmen had plied their trade.


My resolve is being put to the test - the most beautifully crafted leather is being produced and sold here.
Oh My Gosh, but I want several handbags, and a jacket, and shoes, and, and, and, ......








Travelogue - Pitti Palace, and Boboli Gardens, Florence, Italy


So we went to both the Pitti Palace, and the Boboli Gardens today, Sunday 8 September.
So far my favorite places, and what I would call Must See when in Florence.
The Pitti Palace is immense, and if the frescoed walls and ceilings aren't enough; (They were frescoed by Pietro da Cortona (1596-1669)), there are tapestries, carpets, furniture, and an absolutely incredible array of paintings and sculptures. Tickets are 13€ per person, unless you are from a European Union country. Absolutely amazing
So, the palace,
On the first floor is the Palatine Gallery, which as I said, contains an amazing collection 16th and 17th century paintings and sculptures, but you'll spend just as much time admiring the wall and ceiling frescoes. it is the Royal Apartments that contain the period furnishings. On the ground floor and mezzanine is the Silver Museum (Museo degli Argenti) displaying a collection of Medici household treasures; and the Gallery of Modern Art is on the top floor, this is a collection of mostly Tuscan 19th and 20th century paintings.

Tickets are an odd combination designed to extract the maximum € possible.
Online you will find a myriad of ticket options, however, once you get there you can choose ticket 1, and/or ticket 2. Ticket 1 gets you in to the Palace , the Palantine Gallery, the Gallery of Modern Art, and the Royal Apartments. ticket 2 - The Boboli garden ticket indicates that for your 10€ entry you have gained access to Boboli gardens, the Palazzina del Cavaliere on the upper slopes of the Boboli Gardens that houses the Porcelain Museum, and the Palazzina of the Meridiana which contains the Costume Gallery, a showcase of the fashions of the past 300 years. Your ticket also indicates you have access to the Bardini Gardens. However, when you get to the entrance for the Bardini Gardens they deny you entry and say it is a separate new 10€ fee.
I would suggest to do them on two different days unless you are on a very tight schedule, both require a lot of walking and climbing. Neither of these is suitable for the ambulatory impaired, the palace has lots of stairs and no apparent lift, and the garden paths are dirt and stone, and have some serious elevation changes.
And by going on 2 different days so you can take advantage of all the options purchased with each ticket.
We got through the Palantine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, and I had to get out, I was on overload, so missed the silver and the modern art. There are very few paces to rest inside the Palace.
Now, for my critique - and my only critique is this, well two critiques; not enough benches to be able to rest, we were probably two hours with just the Palantine gallery. And my BIG critique, the place is filthy, the paintings and frames are dusty, the sculptures are covered in dust and have lost all luster, I mean good grief, money is being made, spend some of it on maintaining the art, and less on the guards that sit at each doorway and barely look up from their books and electronics devices.
The Boboli Gardens - I lifted all this info from. http://www.mega.it/eng/egui/monu/pittbobo.html
As soon as the Medici bought the Pitti Palace in 1550, work got under way to enlarge it; at the same time work also started on laying out the park behind the building, which was planned to occupy a scenographic setting on the slopes of the Boboli hill (covering 320.000 square metres) and also had access from the square. Its name probably came from the "Borgoli" or "Borgolini" family, who owned houses and land in this part of Oltrarno (literally "over the Arno"), close to the church of Santa Felicita. However the land and the farm that once stood on it belonged to the De' Rossi family when Luca di Bonaccorso Pitti bought it in 1418.
The Boboli Gardens were not to become famous until they became the property of the Medici family, who called in Niccolò Pericoli, known as Tribolo, to design them; this artist had already given ample proof of his talent with his designs for the gardens of the Medici Villas of Castello and Petraia. Tribolo created a masterpiece of "landscape architecture" in the Boboli Gardens between 1550 and 1558, the year of his death.
The Pond of Isolotto - His design was used as a basis for all the royal gardens in Europe, including Versailles, while the park itself was immediately enriched with many Mannerist inventions by Buontalenti (like the Grotta Grande), fountains and statues by Ammannati, Giambologna and Tacca and eventually completed by Giulio and Alfonso Parigi (1631- 1656). The two architects, father and son, carried out the stone Amphitheatre, the unique setting for many celebrated theatrical performances, the cypress alley known as the "Viottolone" and the square and pool of Isolotto. The last additions, like the Coffeehouse (1774-76), the Lawn of the Columns (1776) and the Lemonary (1785), were installed by the Lorriane family who, in the 19th century, introduced several changes in various parts of the park, as decreed by the Romantic "English garden", then in vogue. Pietro Leopoldo decided to open the garden to the public in 1776.
The Giardino del Cavaliere, or Garden of the Knight, a solitary and private area in the grounds, can be found at the top of the hill, close to Fort Belvedere, with the small palace that today houses the Porcelain Museum.
Not much else I can say, except do what we did, take the small paths, the cuts in the hedge, path less traveled, I enjoyed Boboli immensely, and OMG the scenery up there...
We could have spent more time, but after 2 hours in the Palace, and 2 in the Garden, I was beat.
Definitely take water, and if you can take a little picnic.
And again my critique is in the maintenance, the place is in a horrible state, weeds taking over the box hedge, hedges untrimmed, fruit trees suffering from a blight, ponds and pools so overgrown with algae.






Travelogue - Florence, Italy

 

So if the Italians call it Firenze, why do we call it Florence??

Firenze is beautiful, amazing things to see at every turn. The streets are postcard/camera ready. Window boxes, clothes on the line, screenless windows thrown open to let the day in and the sounds of everyday life out. Young men pacing up and down and back and forth on the sidewalk oblivious to all around him but the voice on the other end of his cellphone, gesturing wildly with his free hand, the absolutely lyrical and passionate cadence of his speech making me so wish I could understand what he was saying.

'

Italian is a beautiful language to listen to; Passionate, lyrical, expressive.

I find that I have less and less interest in standard "tourist" sights when I travel. My preference these days is to wander, to see what's down the short dark alley, around the garden gate, along the overgrown path in the park. I want more of a sense of what life is like in a place I visit rather that what museums and galleries can show me.

Today we did the following -

We've done a bit of wandering, and some tourist stops, and I must say the wanderings have been my favorite. Although the Galileo Museum of Science this morning was VERY cool.

The Santa Maria Novella, a 13th century Dominican church was amazing for its art. Although they do a very poor job of explaining what is what and whom is who - or is it who is whom? We were unable, nee unwilling to enter the Cloisters as they required you to check your purse, well helloooooo my id, my money, my credit cards, my glasses, my inhaler, SORRY, I don't leave that stuff anywhere.

At the gates to the garden at Santa Maria Novella they indicate you can enter a prayer chapel for free. So you queue up, shuffle along, Rick Steves says it is 3.5€ to enter, you see people passing into the church in twos and threes, you think Cool, this must be how they control the crowd. Eventually you get to a kiosk where it is 5€ each to pass - We paid.

The Medici Chapel was a total disappointment, and at a high price tag, 9€ per person.

We wandered around outside the Central Market, looked interesting, crowded, and reminded me of the big mercado in Merida. We also wandered about some of the shopping stalls around the train station, Tom bought a hat. There are always pretty things to see, but I don't really need or want anything. We think of things for friends, but well you know how it is buying stuff for other people.

Yesterday we went across the Arno river and walked up to the chiesa di San Miniato al Monte and the piazza Michelangelo, both highly recommended. We walked up, the smarter option would be to catch a #12 bus for the ride up, 2€ for a ticket for 90 minutes duration. And then walk down, we did it in reverse, but I enjoyed the climb. It allowed us to poke in to some overgrown park paths, and enjoy a bit of nature.

I have been surprised at schedules here. Everyone is up and about late - this morning we hit the nearly deserted streets about 8:30am. Most touristy stuff opens between 9 and 9:30, and most close up at 6pm, and do not reopen. I am spoiled, and must say I really appreciate the schedules in Mexico, stuff opens early closes mid day for a few hours, then reopens till late. Heck, even with doctors, you can get appointments between 6 and 9.

So I am having a hard time trying to schedule things, many of our friends say we 'must' go see the 'original' David. This means a long line, and a high entry fee, just to see one statue that we've already seen 2 copies of.

Florence is the only city we have scheduled where galleries and museums abound. Probably shouldn't have had this as our first stop, I want to be outside, wandering.

Who knows what tomorrow may bring~~~~~

 

 

What's worse than raining cats and dogs ? Hailing Taxis!

We got home after our extended travels just in time for Ernesto and Florence, Ernesto should start to be felt Tuesday, he'll be pushing clouds and wind in front of himself.


If he continues along the current projected path we should have a better idea what to expect by Tuesday.  We're in pretty good shape!  A few years ago we were away when a TS/Hurricane was bearing down and we hadn't planned or prepared anything and the friends watching the house were left in a bit of a lurch.


Not anymore!   
We now have easily installed window coverings for the back of the house that doesn't have any glass, and a cover for the ceiling opening inside the house.  The bodega has been recently cleaned and reorganized so there is plenty of room for the garden art and patio furniture.  We've been keeping the trees trimmed so hopefully they won't be pushed over.


Florence doesn't look like she'll pose any threat for us as she seems to be on a different path, but we'll be watching her as well.


Both Merida and this house have weathered many a storm, and I daresay we will all weather this one as as well.  We've got water, canned beans and tuna, cereal and milk, all is good!